As Paris Fashion Week continues to blow us way with incredible shows, day eight was not going to be the black sheep of the season. However black was a strong presence from what we saw today. At Ingrid Vlasov it was dark from beginning to end with occasional striped prints, and sheer laced peek-a-boos. The array of flowing gowns were sexy and body insinuating, truly provocative but tasteful. If anyone knows how to do eveningwear with sass it’s Ingrid. Also dark but in a more grungy and at times gothic-like way was Alexander McQueen. As always innovative shapes and experimental lines were to be expected, and they certainly didn’t disappoint. Full of ruched and ruffled skirts, as well as leather s&m-like straps, and fitted waistlines with volumized skirts, it was an intimidating but luring collection. It’s nice to see that the reigns of the label have been left in great hands.
If there was to be any surprise this season, then Chanel would be it. Each season we’re seeing more of Karl’s esthetic in the label, but this time around it was a full on dose. The collection was dark, rugged, and even a bit sinister, but mistaken not, it was all chic. Using menswear inspired tweeds, loose-fitting pants, jumpsuits, and flower-like ruffles, Lagerfeld delivered as always. It was young, wearable, and tastefully done, a complete treat.
Also tasteful was Collette Dinnigan where we saw a blend of metallic colors and doily-like prints. It was fifties’ silhouettes with a tad of sixties’ mod. There were volumized skirts, box-fitting dresses, velvet-silk blends, and sheer tops. Definitely a sophisticated and mature review.
However if fun is what you want, then stay away from Julien David. Undoubtedly this was the biggest disappointment of the day. With oversized printed coats and simple dresses, this collection lacked innovation, creativity, and even likeability. There’s more innovation in wrapping a towel after a shower than what was seen there today. Luckily Jean-Charles de Castelbajac has enough humor and taste to compensate. Using mostly pop culture prints ranging from 101 Dalmatians to the grand derby avec Moet. Castelbajac delivered what was a show full of volumized coats and fastened waists full of plaids and fringe finishings. It was young, fun, innovative, it was one of the biggest delights of the day.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Closing what was a successful eighth day was Valentino. With a display of sheer tops, leather and fur coats, box-fitting as well as flirty frilly dresses, the collection resulted demurely and at times innocently romantic. It was a very young Valentino, but faithful to the esthetic of elegance and knowing what the woman wants. All in all, it was the perfect closing to a great day of fashion.
As only one day remains in what has been a captivating and intriguing Paris Fashion Week, what surprises could the last shows have?