If day one was an impressive start to a week of Parisian fashion, then day two was the perfect continuation. There was variety, innovation, undoubtedly something for all. Unfortunately not all was perfection though, Felipe Oliveira Baptista was a huge disappointment with a boring display of sheer tops, beaded dresses, and relaxed pants. They were fantastically done but were too plain to the point that plain paper has more excitement. Luckily Guy Laroche and Thierry Mugler were around to add excitement to the gloomy start. At Laroche we saw oversized coats, leather skirts, feminine lines, and beautiful woven dresses all done in a palette of green, red, black, and geometric prints. It was simple but fresh, and tastefully trendy, much alike Mugler. There we witnessed plenty of sheer tops, body hugging latex dresses, and experimental cuts that are probably more daring for some. Although the collection was quite provocative, it was oddly sophisticated and wearable. Perhaps it’s not what you would wear to tea time, but it was definitely a delight.
Keeping also a dark palette were Peachoo Krejberg and Gareth Pugh. At Krejberg it was about furs, distressed finishings, and great outerwear. Although at times it could’ve been a tad overbearing, all in all it was well done and held key pieces that everyone should have. Also genial and sinister was Gareth Pugh. With leather jackets, fitted silhouettes, and pieces full of movement, it was innovative innovation. But if that wasn’t enough, he managed to surprise with breaking monotony and incorporating gold textiles and for the first time ever, color. The pieces in cobalt blue were truly the stars of the show, it was unexpected, a complete treat in deed.
But if there’s one name that manages to innovate simplicity, that would be Damir Doma. In a display of menswear blazers, voluminous coats, and warm metallic colors, he managed to deliver what was a minimal and mature review. Whether perfect or too simple for your taste, Doma is sure to have a piece for you.
Every season there’s always that one show that you don’t expect much from but manages to rob you away and please. This time around that one was Limi Feu. With oversized outerwear, high waists, and men’s inspired clothes, it was all about volume, volume, and more volume. Done in neutral tones with settle floral prints, Feu was young, fresh, and intriguing, an unexpected treat.
Another collection that managed to play with matron shapes and prints and use them to their advantage was Dries van Noten. With hound’s-tooth tweed coats, voluminous outerwear, wovens, and loose-fitting pants, the collection was old but new. It was the classic esthetic f Dries but with an easy effortlessly cool chic wearability.
Dries van Noten
Also surprising on this second day was Anne Valerie Hash. Using what was a display of neutral tones, prints, relaxed fitting pants, but above all layers, Hash gave what was a young, sexy, and conservative collection. It was a completely justified contradiction, undoubtedly one of the many treats of the day.
Anne Valerie Hash
If you saw the pre-fall review last month then the show should’ve been of no surprise. It was absolutely the same but in different shades. If you were hoping for surprises and secretly kept treats, then Rochas is sure to disappoint. But after getting over the predictability factor Rochas gave us what was a simple but elegant collection. Full of volumized coats, menswear inspired blazers, and relaxed shapes, it was current, wearable, and sure to have a piece for everyone.
Closing up the day were Devastee and Rue du Mail which took us through a retro trip through time. At Devastee the sixties’ box-fitting dress was back as well as accompanied by loose-fitting dresses all done in a solid and striped black, white, and grey scheme. It wasn’t exactly the freshest of shows, but it was sassy and what real women want to wear. Clearly the consumers’ needs were thought out. Also having wearability in mind was Rue du Mail where sixties’ mod shapes took a seventies’ twist with bold colors and patterns. There were men’s blazers, loose pants, sheer peek-a-boo necklines, and shimmering pants. It was young, it was new, it was a great option for the next upcoming fall.
Rue du Mail
As the second day concludes, Fashion is proving to be at its finest in Paris, and with this only being the beginning, what conclusions can we begin to draw?