As each day passes, Milan Fashion Week is revealing that next fall isn’t so much about innovation and reinvention as much as it is about redefining classics. We saw it yesterday and once again we saw it today, labels are going back to their roots. At Versus it seemed like Donatella took the theme too literal, it was basic black dresses with mid-waist peek-a-boos with zero creativity and zero attention to detail, it was by far the worst show the label has ever produced. Luckily Dolce & Gabbana were there to teach a few pointers. Using music notes, stars, and menswear as inspiration, the Italian duo gave us classic Italian shapes with a more masculine approach. There were body hugging dresses, sheer lace tops, and sequined blazers, what at times could’ve been clashing and overbearing resulted in a playful and a very wearable review. It was classic Dolce & Gabbana but with a very fun twist.
Dolce & Gabbana
But if this fifth day was defined by any shows, undoubtedly they would be Gaetano Navarra and Salvatore Ferragamo. Navarra gave us a spectacle of volumized ruffled dresses with even bigger sleeves, but yet managed to give each look a very feminine silhouette. The clothes were simple and full of movement, but loaded with detail and attitude. They were well made, beautiful, definitely a treat. Much alike, Salvatore Ferragamo gave us a spectacular show full of men’s inspired blazers, sheer blouses, silk dresses, and a high use of prints ranging from hound’s-tooth to plaids. It was classic Ferragamo, polished, and ageless. It was a fantastic collection for any sharp woman, this is truly how you do menswear as ready-to-wear.
Another to preach simplicity as the meaning of elegance was Laura Biagiotti. Although the color tones were a bit basic, the review of formal flowing gowns reminded us why she’s a connoisseur of eveningwear. But if you add daywear and a hint of men‘s, you’ll have Brioni’s fall collection. It was neutral but with pops of bold color and snow leopard prints. It was settle, but sophisticated and wearable.
At Robert Musso classic sophistication was in store. With simple feminine waisted dresses in a monotonous color scheme, the collection wasn’t the most exciting of the day, but was definitely tasteful and a show that any woman could certainly identify herself with. But if after many simple looks you crave something more random and innovative, need not worry, Marco de Vincenzo has your fix. Using a variety of leather jackets and hair-lined pieces all done with innovative cuts, De Vincenzo proved to be young, new, and a tasteful option for a woman who wants something a little out of the ordinary.
Marco de Vincenzo
Keeping with the trend of the box-fitting dress, Aquilano.Rimondi reminded us what the sixties’ were about. In an array of mod shaped dresses, color and textiles were their best asset. It was a great alternative for women who’d rather have a bit of breathing room and don’t like fitted shapes. It was young yet age appropriate for all, it was current, it was tastefully chic, a great treat in deed.
At Missoni floral prints, floor length coats, and woven sweater-dresses are what we saw, all in light and demure colors. It was an almost fragile Missoni. Much like yesterday’s Pucci, the prints we’ve come to expect were a bit absent, but even without them, the clothes still managed to channel the label. Even though the colors seemed more fit for a Spring collection, Missoni pulled through and delivered, it was a collection sure to satisfy those who follow the brand ounce founded by Ottavio and Rosita.
Lastly, Marni closed the day with a show filled of colorful prints, leather-fur blended coats, and bead encrusted pieces. It was simple but with detailed outerwear, and although the collection was a bit conservative, it was sophisticated and wearable. Surly an age appropriate treat for the more mature dresser.
As day five concludes, thus far Milan has proven to be about color and classics, will the final day follow the same pattern or break the mold and innovate?