As Milan Fashion Week continues to roll along, each day proves to have a new theme for next fall. Day four was about redefining classics, not much about innovation, but rather about reminding us why we fell in love with the labels in the first place. At Bottega Vaneta it was sixties’ mod with an emphasis on tweed. At times it seemed like a scene taken out from Tilda Swinton’s “Io Sono l’amore.” It was very elegant, very regal, very Italian, it was age appropriate for any woman in any phase of her life. Truly classic Bottega.
Emilio Pucci proved to be one of the biggest surprises of the day. Although the collection was sensual and wearable as we’ve come to expect every time, this season they opted for an emphasis on the clothes rather than the prints. Although the classic Pucci print was present, it was more settle, dare say more mature. It was sexy and sophisticated for her, and tailored and chic for him. Although toned down, it was Pucci at its best.
Emilio Pucci (Above & Below)
With a mostly dark collection, Emporio Armani once again proved that you can be very minimal and innovative at the same time. Box-fitting dresses, relaxed fitting pants, bead embellished menswear tops, those were only a few of the many genial pieces that Armani rewarded us for next season. With a gander at this collection, its easy to be reminded that it only takes a little to make a huge statement.
At Jil Sander it was much a continuation of last season. There were bold colors, large volumes with even more inflated tops, intricate printed wovens, it was simple but sophisticated, classic Jil Sander. The collection was current, the collection was wearable, it was definitely a sweet treat for next autumn.
However if there was one label that could’ve used innovation, that would’ve been Ter et Bantine. Although wearable, it was simply matronly. It was old, it was boring, it was a waist of time, but luckily all problems have solutions, and this one has a trash bag waiting to dispose of it. If what you want is youth and fun, skip it and head over to Moschino Cheap and Chic. Although the combinations were also matronly, the looks were completely young and fresh. Using a wide variety of plaids and prints and voluminous tops, Moschino managed to pull of what was a strong but playfully edgy collection.
Moschino Cheap and Chic
But if your esthetic is more of rock and roll, then Frankie Morello and Roberto Cavalli are sure to please. At Morello what we saw were menswear inspired jackets and voluminous skirts all in an array of black and yellow, it was “Grease,” all over again. What was a blast from the past, was youthful, fun, edgy, and one hundred percent current, but if fifties’ is too old for you, then what’s fresher than millennium rock? This season Cavalli gave his classic hardcore attitude a more feminine and sophisticated twist. There were leopard-paisley prints, rich warm colors, metallic textiles, and strong appliqués with high attention to detail, it was wearable, it was Chic, it was a gentler Cavalli, a great option for someone who wants low-key edge.
As day four wrapped up, Sportmax gave us what was surprisingly one of their best shows to date. With an array of menswear inspired tops, loose pants, woven prints, as well as embellished pieces, the collection proved to be masculine yet feminine, sensual but conservative, and a fashionable paradox that works for any woman at any age. It was undoubtedly one of the best treats of the day.
As Milan Fashion Week passes its midpoint, next Fall has increasingly gotten more interesting with each show that passes, with so much alta moda, will the next couple of days be able to please as well?