Day three of London Fashion Week was a day of momentum. What began as a total bore gradually gained more interest and turned out to be the best day yet this season. The two that rather than captivate us, fed us visual melatonin were Margaret Howell and Acne. Howell’s menswear as outerwear was as uninspiring as Gaddafi’s Libyan flag, one shade, no interest, total yawn. While Acne’s unimaginative use of leather would want to make any carnivore become a PETA affiliate after seeing such a wasted use of the animal skin. If you’re going to use a creature in any way, be sure that it’s justified, don’t pull an Acne. Luckily to make up for the lost excitement, Vivienne Westwood showcased her Red Label, which was a perfect mix of men’s inspired coats, playful prints, and fitted skirts. It was typical Westwood eccentricity, but with incredible wearabaility. It was chic, it was bold, it was real clothes for women with a personality.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
At Jasper Conran what we saw were neutral tones with geometric cuts. Although some of the pieces were at times unimaginative and outdated, there were also some key staples to any wardrobe. But if neutral with innovation is what you crave then Antonio Berardi is sure to fulfill. Full of experimental shapes and cuts, with volumized sleeves, and fitted skirts, the collection proved to have an incredible ease as wearability is concerned, and a true treat for any young and trendy girl.
If typical monotony is not much of your liking then Osman will surly delight. With an impressive display of textile blends and great use of color when present, this collection was definitely not ordinary. Add wearability to the equation and you have real clothes for real women. But if there’s one man who season after season has known what women want, that would be Matthew Williamson. Using padded pants, sheer blouses, tweed grunge-like prints, and an array of bold and metallic colors, Williamson gave us what was a young, fresh, and wearable collection. Need it not be mentioned, it is truly a treat that any woman would enjoy.
Keeping up with the latest trend of menswear as ready-to-wear, Richard Nicoll and Nicole Farhi both gave it a go with their own twist. At Nicoll it was androgyny with feminine cuts and shapes, although the colors were pretty neutral, the collection was very innovative and even a tad reminiscent of Rad Hourani. At Farhi, it was quite the contraire, it was androgyny with an emphasis on masculinity, as seen on the shapes and fit of the clothes. Although the collection was simple and a bit monotonous, it was well done and proved to be an alternative option to the standard skirt and blouse.
Richard Nicoll (Left) Nicole Farhi (Right)
Paradoxes are always great then when they happen, but even more so when they happen in fashion. Temperley London was the perfect example of such. With crystal embellished gowns, ruffled sleeves, flowing skirts, and doily-like lace prints, Temperley proved to be flirty but serious and dainty but strong. With so many contradictions, this collection had no choice than to be young, regal and modern, fit for any woman at any age. Now would Cruella de Vil like it? If she had ever succeeded in catching the one hundred and one Dalmatians, then no. But if we ever wondered what that infamous runway would’ve looked like, then Unique gave us a clear idea. Using Dalmatian-printed fur, fitted pants, sheer prints, and voluminous shapes, Unique gave us what was a playful yet wearable review.
As London Fashion Week passes its equator, each day has been edgier and more incredible than the one before. With the first three days being outstanding, will the next be able to keep this momentum?