As NYFW continues to unfold, each day has been more contrasting than the one before, and serving as proof is day six where eclecticity rained supreme. For many this variety was a good thing, but as there is best, there is also worst in show which was evident at Frank Tell, where scruffy and alternative proved not to be allies. A tasteless palette of olive showed us that sometimes dead grass isn‘t the most atrocious shade of green, it has officially been overthrown by this collection. Surprisingly Narciso Rodriguez was also in the bottom two. Although the collection was classic Narciso with the geometric play of textiles and impressive coats, it was the frocky edge and grungy tones which weighed this show down. Fortunately for geometric lines and textile play we have Herve Leger by Max Azria. Although the collection was at times a bit reminiscent of last fall’s Gucci show, it proved to have an innovation of its own. As the saying goes, steal from the best and make it your own. With body sculpting pieces and neutral tones, Azria once again proved his knowledge of the female body. It was sleek, it was sexy, it’s what women want to wear.
Herve Leger by Max Azria
Also savvy to the female physique were Bibhu Mohapatra and Dennis Basso. Bibhu perhaps was one of the best shows of the day. Using hair dresses, volumized sleeves, and knee-length skirts, he clearly knew how to accentuate a woman’s figure. It was conservative yet sexy, young, but mature, it was absolutely fabulous. It easy to see why he’s the expert when it comes to materials and finishings. Although his collection was spectacular, it was Dennis Basso who stole the day. Although at times the extensive use of furs was a bit overbearing, it was nice to see that for those whom choose to dress animal conscious, there were options. The hair pieces were absolutely phenomenal, giving volume, texture, and shape to an already alive collection. With doily-like tops and a variety of neutral tones, this collection proved to be the perfect choice for any woman who wants to look smart and chic.
No stranger to New York Fashion Week, Vera Wang once again delivered what we expected, a young, feminine, and wearable collection, although this time it was infused with a B-12 of sensuality. With sheer pleats and plunging necklines, she proved that classic too can be sexy.
Moving to flirty shapes were TRIAS, J. Mendel, and Tibi. TRIAS gave us fastened waists with beautiful cuts that insinuated much, but unfortunately the looks were muted with dull color choice. Luckily Tibi was there to show how its done. What began also looking like TRIAS evolved look by look into what was a cheeky and slightly innovative display of volumized crèmes with splashes of red. It was young, it was fresh, it was a treat. Also tastefully trendy was J. Mendel. Being an eveningwear based collection, it was nice to see to experimental use of fitted pants beneath. In an array of different colors with plunging necklines, the collection was polished, sophisticated, and even a bit daring. A great way to make a statement at any soiree.
J. Mendel (Left) Tibi (Right)
Also Kings of eveningwear, Badgley Mischka put on a great show which was a bit Madame Satine goes to the city. Full of sequins, gems, and Swarovski crystals, this collection needless to say sparkled in every sense of the word. With innovative cuts and flowing dresses, the embellishments were just an added bonus. These were truly beautiful clothes that women desire to wear. So ladies, with ensembles like these, I’d suggest filling up your event calendar.
Transitioning to the youthful edgy side of NYFW, we have Jen Kao, which this season reminded us a bit of the late Alexander McQueen through the bold and innovative choices of textiles. With fresh cuts, feather skirts, and tapered pants, this collection was without a doubt young, colorful, and daring.
Adding a bit to the mix today was Diesel’s Black Gold Label which was a bit Manhattan saloon. Cowboy inspired vests, with wild west tones, proved to be one of the best collections Diesel has brought out to date. With plenty of leatherwork, multi-layered pieces, and an always impressive knitwear, the show was young and fresh, and indisputably a treat for both men and women.
Diesel Black Gold Label
Two shows which were the epitome of high-end street wear were undoubtedly Sergio Davila and Mackage. Although Mackage was young through the use of unexpected textiles, varied necklines, and body hugging pieces, it was Sergio Davila that spoke to the masses. Using bold colors, sexy cuts for women, and masculine shapes for men, it was clear that Davila understood what the consumer wants. It was current, it was stylish, this is what you see any night out at Tao or Lavo. Thus being said, it was clear today that if you needed an outfit for any occasion, today would’ve been the day to find it. With so many options, next fall will bring any fashion enthusiasts’ classic dilemma, “what to choose?”