As NYFW passes its midway point, it’s becoming clear what trends we can expect for next fall. A bit of sparkle, a bit of leopard, and a bit of floral. The biggest surprise however was color, as was clear at Pamella Roland and Carolina Herrera, two labels known for refined style, but never for their choice of shade. At Roland we saw floral prints and fuchsia as well as an assortment of Swarovski encrusted dresses. Innovative draping, poncho-like coats, and a tasteful use of feathers and furs, although the collection was mature and well-done it was the massive floral appliqués which devalued the set, but otherwise it was a smart bet for any woman. Carolina Herrera once again did what she does best, classic elegance with sophisticated tailoring. Using falcon gloves, feather prints, warm colors, and volumized coats, the collection proved this time to have a youthful twist. It was signature beauty with innovation, definitely a regal collection for a sharp woman.
If there was one collection that stood out last month at Paris Haute Couture, it would have to be Christian Dior for redefining its classic signature style. Now if one had to be chosen for New York thus far, it would without a doubt be Donna Karan. Plunging necklines, innovative furs, tweed cardigans, and body draping silhouettes. This collection was the epitome of the word fashion. Completely fabricated in grey, it certainly did not wash out. With fifties’ inspired elegance, and fine attention to detail, it made for perhaps one of the best collections to have ever been seen at any NYFW. Absolutely stunning from beginning to end.
One collection that gave Donna Karan a run for best in show was definitely Monique Lhullier. Also fifties’ influenced with empire waists, sheer tops, and fresh new cuts and shapes, this collection could be summed up as all things sweet with a bow stamp of approval. Mostly neutral with occasional pops of color, the collection was young and flirty as well as demure and innocent. Definitely a collection for any romantic city gal.
Keeping in with the theme of sophisticated glamour, Ralph Rucci once again reminded us of why he’s the only American couturier. Done in white, black, and red, he proved to us that color isn’t always necessary in order to stand out. Fine attention to detail, and creative ingenuity will do just the same. Although it was a very simple collection of volumized silks and fur garnished coats, it was definitely synonymous of elegance. It was very mature and sophisticated yet sexy all at once. Thus being said, it comes no surprise that his formula was simple, pretty clothing for women who want to look beautiful.
Chado Ralph Rucci
Fashion isn’t always so serious, and is sometimes meant to be taken lightly and enjoyed, as is evident season after season at Sachin + Babi and Betsey Johnson. At Sachin edgy punk rock was in store with leather pants, loose tops, and an innovative use of buckles as embellishment on women’s bottoms. It was clearly young and current with fresh cuts and shapes. You know you’ve seen a good show when it finishes and you want more, a must see trendy treat. Betsey Johnson was also fun and quirky as usual. This time around she delivered an array of denim dresses, leopard and floral prints with a grungy style. Although at first sight the leopard is a bit overbearing, the non-hosiery pieces were quite wearable and dare say exceptional. No shocker, Betsey is the queen of innovative surprises after all.
Another collection which proved to be a delight was Tracy Reese. There was an impressive display of pleats, new concepts of belts, and a variety of prints and flirty dresses. The entire set had a feel of cosmopolitan jet set. They were very easy looks with complicated prints, truly a collection to effortlessly look cool and chic. Sadly that wasn’t the case at Woolrich (John Rich & Bros.) and GUiSHEM where both shows proved that there is something as too simple. You’ll have more excitement wearing a burlap sack than browsing these shows, and at least sacks have texture, something these two were incapable of achieving. They were boring and unimaginative. The textile combinations were fantastic, but what good are they if your innovation is par with a rock. Do yourself a favor and pass on them. For a better use of textile blends look towards Callula Lillibelle, the multi-lapelled jackets and sequined leggings were an absolute riot. Also using metallic colors and tweeds, the collection resulted in a young fresh and very fun display. A guaranteed way to look chic in any of the biggest cities.
One show that didn’t disappoint was Jenny Packham where much like Callula, everything was embellished. The bodysuits, the leggings, skirts, and gowns, everything sparkled. What could’ve looked like a broken mirror turned out to be very well done, fresh and wearable. Hear that Farah Angsana? You could take a note or two. Also keeping with the metallic theme was Carlos Miele which managed to remake the shiny concept in a more regal and elegant way. Chain-like weaving, striped knits, velvet pants, and extensive ruching, this collection had a very relaxed feel, but was very eloquent nonetheless.
With more than half of New York Fashion Week having concluded, the end draws near, but that may not be a bad thing. With the extensive amount of treats we’ve seen, the sooner next fall comes, the sooner we can posses them.