As fashion week continues to roll on through, day four served us what could be called a sassy fruit salad. It was eclectic, it was edgy, and there was something for every taste. With evening wear at the top of its game, Carmen Marc Valvo drew inspiration from a ballerina, which was clear with the ethereal and sensual ruffled gowns, and wave like movement seen on the sheer and laced dresses. It was very simple, but the epitome of elegance, which could also be said for Zang Toi. Larger than life coats, menswear inspired pants, fur trimmed lapels, and simple lines delivered what Toi does best, beautiful clothes for a sophisticated woman. The dresses were very intricate but looked very simple. Rather than ready to wear the collection heaved haute couture. Very strong, regal, and elegant, but dainty at the same time. Now shifting to an edgy side, Custo Barcelona proved once again that there’s much more to the Catalan label than the eclectic printed tees. With plunging necklines, textile combinations, innovative use of zippers, and a wide assortment of prints and furs, this collection was scruffy enough to turn out fun, young, and playful. Although quite daring as always, it was spot on with the new trends.
Another label that never disappoints as edge is concerned is Y-3. With a mix of greens, blues, reds, whites, and an occasional black, this collection proved to be the easy way to look effortlessly cool. With volumized jackets and innovative cuts for both men and women, the show proved to be young, fresh, and unexpected as always. Unfortunately the same could not be said for Calvin Klein Men’s show. Although impeccably done, the collection was capital B-O-R-I-N-G. Unless you’re seeking a costume for next Halloween as the Michelin Man, this collection is not for you. The coats were puffy and big, and although they do serve there purpose for winter, they were tasteless and bland. If what you want is youth and volume skip this store and head over to Givenchy.
Timo Weiland clearly took note and knew how to cater to both the male and female consumer, although not very new, it was very current. With a mix of plaids, waves, and polka dots, the collection turned out to be fresh and wearable, this is what we see people wearing on the streets. Fitted pants, poncho-like jackets, and fur trimmed sleeves, there was definitely something for everyone, no matter the individual style.
As the day unfolded we began to see a display of ultra feminism. At Diane von Furstenberg it was definitely about women in power which was evident through the bold use of color, simple detail, and fine prints. With fur outerwear and plunging necklines, the collection turned out to be Michelle Obama meets jet set cocktails at lunch. It was very chic, very cosmopolitan, very sexy, but conservative all at once. Perhaps one of the best paradoxes to hit fashion. At Yoana Baraschi what we saw were metallic appliqués, relaxed fitting pants, binded waists, and volumized coats, all done in an array of varied prints and eclectic colors. It was young and powerful but not too serious. Definitely for a woman in charge of her life.
Diane von Furstenberg
Another celebration to the women in power was Max Azria. There loose fitting dresses, volumized coats, and innovative cuts and textile blend made for a very neutral and simple but elegant collection. Definitely for a woman on the go who wants to look effortlessly chic.
But before any woman reaches power they must go through the girly and flirty days which was queen supreme at Lela Rose and Tory Burch. At Rose fitted silhouettes, painted prints, metallic dresses, and feather and gem embellished pieces, made for a very young, sassy, and mature collection. Burch was much the same but with a heavier use of plaids, prints, and furs. What had the potential to become quite matronly turned out to be fresh and feminine. Both shows were great examples of how to be smart about fashion and that you can look sophisticated and young at the same time.
Lela Rose (Left) Tory Burch (Right)
Next in line was Derek Lam which looked towards boyish charm for inspiration. With menswear styled jackets, and a very neutral barely alive palette, this collection was heading towards disaster. Fortunately with his innovative use of textiles and flowing strapless gowns, he proved once again that he understands the women’s needs. Although it was a bit safe, it was a very wearable collection, holding true staples of any wardrobe.
Cynthia Steffe was another to fully understand her loyal customer, delivering a warm and upbeat collection. Fur sleeved jackets, suede coats, zig zag prints, and ruffled waists, this perhaps was one of the best shows of the day. It was a collection that played with the idea of a cosmopolitan panther in a concrete jungle. It was impeccable clothes with an even more incredible styling. A collection truly made by a woman for a woman, absolutely wearable from beginning to end. Unfortunately the same couldn’t be said for Behnaz Sarafpour, which left much to be expected this season. Although well made, the tweed pieces and printed ruched dresses couldn’t be saved by the Swarovski embellishment and innovative appliqués, it was simply too boring. It was like eating a slice of dry cake, looks pretty but isn’t satisfying at all.
Closing the review, it was clear that DKNY took a few pointers from last month’s men’s fashion weeks. The label was a bit dandy girl/ Indie musician meets New York City. With fitted pants, stripped knit dresses, plunging neck-lined cardigans, and poncho-like volumed coats, the collection turned out to be a tad masculine and strong, but young, flirty, and cheeky. It was a show of contradictions that somehow were coherent with one another.
With day four concluding, we reach the equator of New York Fashion Week. With each day increasingly surpassing the one before, will day five blow us away?