If innovation is your delight, then rejoice because NYFW’s third day was all about edge. Starting at Mandy Coon, there was a bit of a Marvels comic feel. The collection was fantastically tailored with leather-textile blends and tie-dye prints. Thus far the collection was stellar but the use of bat-like capes, fur-lined coats, and excessive bows achieved the goal of looking literally like a heroine’s wardrobe, although she can save day, she’s far from ready to walk the streets of Manhattan. It was bland, it was boring, it simply wasn’t chic. Luckily we have Jill Stuart who had our crime fighter’s back. With eagle landing prints and metallic colors as the base of the pleated dresses and a-line skirts, this collection was stellar and truly meant for any woman at any age. It had range, it had sex appeal, it was the wardrobe that any Superwoman would want to wear.
Maisonette 1977 was young and flirty as always with body hugging silhouettes, revealing cut-outs, and wearable leather pieces. Add an impressive display of shoes and neutral tones and you have a young trendy city review that any girl would want to wear to cocktail hour. At Charlotte Ronson we had the same dose of youth but in a more grungy way. Knitted dresses, printed skirts, striped cardigans, it was very incoherent, but somehow the attitude each look sported made them mesh together. Although lacking in innovation, it was young and wearable. Real clothes that real women can wear.
If women were having a great day of fashion, then men certainly got their dose as well. General Idea was a mix of bold colors, flannel and camouflage prints, with an innovative use of toggle buttons and denim. It was a bit Alpine climber goes to a rock concert. Definitely equipped for the winter with thick jackets, but it was the volumized coats and fitted denim that will help any man reach their fashionable peak. Disappointingly, Mike Cire was left midway. With fur trimmed trenches, black leather jackets, and fitted pants, it was a bit ski lounge gone uptown, even reminiscent of Olivier Zahm’s minimal esthetic. Although the clothes were truly wearable, it had a bit of a mainstream feel and lacked innovation. A lesson or two could be taken from the European men’s fashion weeks. If not, ask Dutch label G-Star RAW, which was perhaps one of the biggest treats of the day. With Victorian sized coats, and cape-like ponchos, volume was a definite presence for the men. Ironically women were quite the contraire, it was more about fitted waistlines with a flowy bottom feel. Mostly done in navy blue as always, it was pleasant to see the use of olive greens, reds, and white. Having evolved from the denim only days, this collection was edgy and well-tailored, definitely for today’s youth.
G-Star RAW (Above & Below)
Shifting back to women’s wear, Binetti and Prabal Gurung definitely had the same consumer in mind. A young cosmopolitan edgy girl. At Binetti we saw gold stitching, leopard prints, feathers and sequins. Although very eclectic, it was a collection of contradictions that surprisingly worked, through the use of daring skirts and tapered pants. At Prabal Gurung women were rewarded with a display of voluminous and metallic dresses, as well as empire waists, and varied necklines. It was everything sweet with a hardcore attitude, truly what the edgiest of chicest dreams are made of.
ADAM was another show that was truly well rounded with looks for every occasion. You could easily go to work at the financial district, and then head downtown to Buddakan for dinner or a drink, and later journey uptown for a soiree. Mostly composed of sheer tops, plaid skirts, and poncho-like coats, the collection was at times very demure and fragile, but always with a tough and strong attitude, it almost even had a bit of a posh-rock feel. Whatever your occasion, ADAM has something for you.
Always synonymous of great style and elegance, Vivienne Tam once again delivered. This season she took us on the journey of a Japanese woman, from her blackboard beginnings as a school girl with the use of conservative navy skirts and tweed blazers, to her rebelliously edgy days behind Shinjuku station with edgy cuts, vibrant colors and prints, to the beginning of womanhood with more serene and mature sophisticated fits. With such a cool palette, this collection is incredibly on fire, and adding to the fuel are the flame like appliqués which were very present throughout the show. All in all, it was very sexy, age appropriate for any woman, and incredibly wearable, a collection for no woman to miss.
Closing the night was Catalan designer Toni Francesc, with vibrant colors and birds for inspiration, this collection was regal, sophisticated, and the epitome of elegance. With leaf-like belts, draped cuts, and an impressive use of silks, it’s a collection for no one to miss out on. The perfect ending to this third day of fashion.