With day one setting the bar, day two had pretty big shoes to fill, and so it did, delivering an array of collections that celebrate the woman. Two houses that fell a bit short of expectation were Atelier Gustavo Lins and Maurizio Galante. At Gustavo it was a show set in black with a few dully colored pieces. Isn’t this for Spring? It was boyish charm with tail-coat-like skirts, and printed coats. Although there were great convertible pieces and young cuts, they still couldn’t hide the matronly tone the collection possessed. At Galante what we had was a bit Oriental hummingbird goes to Rio for Carnival, which was clearly the result of the overwhelming styling. Setting the make-up aside there were some pretty intriguing pieces. The poncho-like coats were pretty incredible but it was a shame there weren’t any bottoms to accompany the tops. If knickers and jackets was the theme then mission accomplished.
Another collection that didn’t quite live up to the name of the brand was Givenchy, which proves to not always be a bad thing. Although the Japanese appliques, swarovski and pearl encrusted silks, and feather skirts were very demure, delicate, and beautifully done, the actuall esthetic of Givenchy was gone. Riccardo Tisci’s gothy edge remained in hibernation for the Spring, the collection was still feminine and chic, and fit for any woman who desires to look beautiful, but it certainly wasn’t what we were expecting. Perhaps this is indication that the label is heading in a new direction.
Two shows that proved that haute couture can be young, fun, and full of energy and excitement were Adeline Andre and Julien Fournie. At the double A’s what we saw was a collection reminiscent of Tony Manero’s days at the 2001 Odyssey, it was Saturday Night Fever with a contemporary style. The pieces were a bit masculine and at times a bit androgynous. If it wasn’t for the unitards, the collection would have been unisex. It was elegant yet edgy, colorful, but controlled, it was a complete paradox that worked. If Andre was a surprise, then Fournie was an even bigger treat. With only pastels, nude colors, and transparent textiles, the collection resulted in a showing of very delicate and feminine flowing gowns. It was refined and elegant, a collection set for any woman.
Alike Dior yesterday, Chanel went back to its roots but with a modern spin. There we witnessed an array of lilacs and tweeds with light floral printed skirts. which resulted in very soft and sensitive pieces. With intricate embellishment, it was a collection that literally sparkled in every sense of the word. Although it was a bit safe, it was very beautiful and Karl once agin proved why he is the man behind perhaps what is the most Parisian label of all.
Although there were plenty of surprises on this second day, not quite measured up to what we saw at Stephane Rolland. It was “the” collection of the day, it was sensual, it was wearable, it was impeccable. It was a shame that three models had mishaps, but abruption aside, the warm poncho-like sleeves, exaggerated collars, and experimental metal draping, the collection was absolutely exquisite, a treat in deed for any woman. With a mix of shows, the first two days of Paris’ Haute Couture certainly have not left indifferent.