With four spectacular days of men’s fashion, we come to the fifth and conclude what has been a week of fashion filled with classic elegance, edge, and new creative talent. The third rang most true on the final day as was proven at the Rynshu and Songzio shows. Rynshu was very innovative with the use of latex, leather, feathers, and fur, it was a cocktail of materials and a bit of dark colors, which created something you could call British rock sportswear. There were plenty of loose jackets, padded pants, and silver shirts, although the detail was minimal, the texture certainly was not, thus creating a very tactile and young collection. Songzio was also very young with a romantic bolero meets gaucho feel. Plenty of different fitting pants, knee-length coats, and ultra low-cut v-necks, made for a daring but wearable show. Although both great, the star of the day and by far the biggest surprise of Paris Fashion Week was Qasimi Homme. The Emirate designer delivered a variety ranging from fitted leather pants to an amazing showing of oversized wovens. It was new, it was spot on with trends, and above all it was wearable, a collection that real men would wear, a trendy treat in deed.
With all that is good comes the bad, which is exactly what we could call the Arnys and Wooyoungmi shows. At Arnys what we saw were plaids and well-tailored suits, although there were specks of color, this was a very standard collection. So standard that is was like “visual melatonin,” with the same desire there was for it to begin, there was even more for it to finish. Unfortunately the same is true for the Korean designer, where we saw a collection for an active man who likes to look elegant. It was very well-tailored and even more wearable, but it was too safe which made it all the more boring. Transitioning from the boring to the fun, we have Acne and Yigal Azrouel where they both proved that they really know how to dress the male anatomy. At Acne we had ankle-length coats, city print tees, neck wraps, and over-sized blazers with cropped pants. They were colorfully paired which made for a comfortable and jetset feel collection. Truly for a man who wants to look simple but elegant while on the go. Azrouel was also one to serve up elegance with an array of very young prints, sharp belted coats and an even more impressive display of wovens, which resulted in the “how to” look smart and chic at the same time.
At every fashion week there are labels that create great expectation and it’s always appalling when they fall short. Two names synonymous of high quality are Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent. This season they lived up to their repertoires and delivered what they do best, fine tailoring, simplicity, and high style. Lanvin was very authentic to their esthetic using neutral tones, sensual shapes, and elegant unexpected cuts. The entire showcase resulted in a slightly feminine but very adventurous theme, which was a bit what a stylish Indiana Jones would wear if he went to Paris. AT YSL what we had was volumized coats, plaid shirts and coats, neutral tones and splashes of green and blue. It was very faithful to the YSL man creating a very classic and regal, but above all wearable collection. It was real style that real men want to wear.
Paul Smith (Left) Thom Browne (Right)
Closing what was a very exciting and innovative Paris Fashion Week we have three last names which certainly deserve a gander. Bill Tornade was a bit dandy chic with a mix of plaid, browns, leathers, and suede. Expect tapered pants, skirts, and experimental lines. It was young and what any trendsetter would want to wear. Paul Smith was mostly neutral but with great use of color when it did do so. Volumized sweaters, coil-like textured fabrics, and prints for the daring, it was overall a collection that men could enjoy to dress in. Thom Browne was a bit of the two in one, with exuberant belted coats, an eclecticity of plaids, cuffed and fitted trousers. It was George V meets a modern European winter, very Victorian, but very new. Although the Men’s fashion Weeks are officially over the fashion still is not, with the conclusion of Men’s, begins the week of Haute Couture, a time when fantasies turn from imagination and become reality.