With the second day having been a wonderful display of men’s fashion, day 3 had big shoes to fill and so it did. It was most definitely a display of simplicity with innovation and designers’ playing outside the box as was clear at Kris Van Assche. For a collection mostly done in black with a few greys it was very minimal and edgy at the same time. With loose-fitting tops and unexpected use of zippers, the collection resulted in simple and comfortable, but stylish. It’s the effortless way to look cool. Two disappointments this season were Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Bierendock. Garcons was unexpected as usual but not in a good way as it lacked shock and intrigue this time around. Slouchy fitting pants, a hodgepodge of dull colors, polka dots, and floral prints, the only true treat were the tail coats. But coats aside this is one collection to pass on. unfortunately Bierendock was much the same. The use of color was evidence that his intention was to produce a festivity and for one to play and enjoy the pieces, but the collection was a bit juvenile, the only true stars were the convertible poncho-like coats which were the treat to have.
Agnes B (Left) Junya Watanabe (Center) Kris Van Assche (Right)
Junya Watanabe opted for leathers, suedes, loose-fitting pants, as well as mix of prints, stripes, and color. A bit outdoors meets twenties’ style, safe but very clean and sophisticated with fine tailoring. Agnes B. was also very clean but with more of a rock-punk esthetic with a mixture of nautical stripes and colorful plaids. Loose was definitely what he had in mind as we noticed in the larger than life poncho-like sleeves, undoubtedly a trendy treat for the fall.
Moreover at Julius a minimalist edge was present with black, brown,a nd white leathers set to oversized sleeves and tapered pants, although an esthetic reminiscent to that of Rick Owens. At Gustavo Lins edge was also served. A small but very intricate collection. The pieces showed off the Brazilians architectural background in an array of black transformable coats which were riddled to create volume and shape to any body. Few but definite treats. At Givenchy we also saw the use of black, an all too common color for the fall, but with a very aggressive bull-dog spin, from the prints, to the cainines’ color. Expect furs, layered coats, and murky plaids to the tailored suits, loose tops, and shorts. It was as if Tisci had designed a collection fit for Marc Jacobs. Once again Tisci proves why he is the name behind the French house.
Concluding the third day, we saw Cerruti which gave us a showing of charcoal and gray. Button down jackets, slim trousers, quilted leather sleeves, and silver studded ties, little edge but a safe commercial bet for the label. At Galliano it was quite the contraire, Galliano paid an homage to the late Rudolph Nureyev, with only the edge he knows how to create. A mix of loose and tapered pants with an array of layered coats, it was obvious that this collection was Russian. Although this had the potential to be very soft and feminine, it most definitely was not, tough and masculine without a doubt. With only two days left, Paris has proven to know what men want for the fall.