If day 1 was disappointing due to the lack of shows, then day 2 will certainly compensate for the shortage. There was definitely something for every taste. At Issey Miyake, it was all about the pen and the importance of pockets, which was evident in the low-toned colored collection. There was a mix of loose-fitting coats and pants with plenty of slots for the aforementioned companion, a very casual and young collection set for the winter. At Yohji Yamamoto, what we saw was a very clean and casual collection for men at any age. He opted for a “real man,” type model, featuring plus-sized men as well as an array of males of different ages. High-waisted pants, oversized coats, cosy cardigans, and neutral tones are what you can expect, not much innovation, but still meeting the standard we always expect. At John Lawrence Sullivan, it was much the same but with more of a modern era dandy. It was classic plaids with a very mute palette, but very sharp and well-tailored, with a surprise use of buckles which gave it a deal of youth. Two of the most interesting shows were without a doubt Juun J. and Dries Van Notten. At Juun we had extreme plaids, voluminous sleeves, asian inspired barrettes, fitted pants, even bigger coats, and an impeccable display of tailoring, all while retaining a dandy elegance. A beautiful paradox without a doubt. Dries Van Notten was another display of contemporary elegance. Using sand and water with bits of grey as the tones, the eighties’ inspired outdoor gear was classic and edgy all at once. With well-tailored trenches, loose-fitting pants, with tweed and fur jackets, this was real clothes for real men.
Dries Van Noten
At Viktor & Rolf and Smalto, we saw identical collections, both were set in monochromatic schemes with bits of beige, and a occassional plaid. Innovation was also absent at the two, since we’ve seen everything before. Both also featured knitwear, fitted pants, and loose tops, the only difference was that Smalto incorporated more trenches and Viktor & Rolf chose cardigans. If classic is what you fancy, then these are your labels, edge-less but well-done. At Gaultier what we witnessed was spectacular, an homage to Ian Fleming’s 007. The journey began with “Casino Royale” with the use of blacks, evening wear, leathers, coats, and went back to the “Goldfinger,” and “Thunderball” days with the use of bronze and golds with padded and fitted pants, almost having an aquatic feel. It was eclectic, it was what we expected from fashion’s bad boy, it was fantastic!
Jean Paul Gaultier
Lastly at Louis Vuitton and Adam Kimmel, David Lynch was oddly a source of inspiration. At Kimmel it was a bit rural, a bit lumberjack meets biker in the Pacific Northwest. Plenty of button-downs, high-rise stone-washed jeans with very manly silhouettes, and at Vuitton it was also a bit rural but with an Amish twist. There were long trenches, relaxed fit pants, and plenty of neutral tones. The biggest treat was the use of the color red in the accessories as well as the suits. It was a very casual way to look cool, and the convertible pieces were truly a treat but over all it was a safe collection.
Alexis Mabille (Left) Louis Vuitton (Center) Rick Owens (Right)
However two labels that didn’t play it safe this season were Alexis Mabille and Rick Owens. Mabille was very young, very rock, and very punk as is visible in the much use of plaid jackets and tight-fitting laced pants. Although it could have been a pretty dark collection, the use of color was what really made the collection stand out. This one is definitely not safe, but is very well put together and very young, a collection for someone who is comfortable in their skin. The same can be said for Rick Owens which showcased what he does best, outerware. To no one’s surprise, the collection was pretty monotone with use of leathers and suedes. Skirts, knee-high boots, knee-length coats, and fitted pants were what he offered for the fall, postapocalyptic as usual, but surprisingly very wearable. No matter what the esthetic, today Paris offered something for every taste, and thus we reach the equator of Paris Fashion Week.