With day 2 raising the bar and Dsquared2 and Armani around the corner on the final day, day 3 had big shoes to fill, it seemed only fitting that they pulled out their big guns, which is exactly what we witnessed on this third day of fashion. The day was clearly geared more towards the young client as was evident in the D&G and Iceberg collections. D&G this season opted for a celebration of Americana, as was evident in the high use of electric colors as well as the many printed tees and bombers featuring famous pop icons such as the characters of Disney and coca-cola. The skin-tight pants, leather jackets, and high topped sneakers almost seamed like a Brooklyn youth or an Andy Warhol painting coming to life, it was very festive. At Iceberg youth was very present as well but in a very dull almost boring way, color rang absent as was evident with the strict use of camel and grey with very rare sights of maroon and green. Rather than innovative streetware, it seemed more like what a very fashionable young man would wear at home to lounge in, although young, the collection was pretty much a dud which is the same than can be said for Canali. There we saw what they do best, fine tailoring, classic suits, simple elegance. If that’s what you expected, then you will be pleased, the only thing that saved the show was the surprising use of color, ranging from purple and teal to neon yellow and pink, but even then, it was the same suit we’ve seen before.
Now if what we want edge, then Dirk Bikkembergs and Alexander McQueen are your shows. Birkkembergs proved once again why he is the king of football oriented sportswear. With body hugging lurex turtlenecks and thigh tight calf cut pants, it’s amazing how chic you can look during your morning jog. At McQueen we took a journey to Russia during the last of the Romanov days and into USSR. It was a bit rural, a bit military, a bit cosmopolitan, but all Russian nonetheless. The primary colors set the stage with accents of white, black, and brown as the secondary tones as seen on the poncho sleeves, tweeds, and fine tailored jackets. It was a very tough and intimidating collection, a wardrobe that would make any man command presence.
Keeping in sync with a recent trend, we saw “the dandy” appear at the Etro show, however this wasn’t your typical beau, this was a twenties’ dandy with a seventies’ psychedelic vibe. We saw everything from cow prints, and paisley, to gold velvet jackets and the use of every color from Woodstock. It was truly a clashing of eras which resulted in mod at its finest. At Gucci and Versace the seventies’ were of clear influence, however the two could not be more distinct. At Gucci, Frida Giannini opted for the seventies’ sexuality and sophistication which was clear with the fine tailoring and sleek fitted suits. Furs, crocodile, as well as neutral-like cool colors could be seen which truly gave the collection a bit of a cool lounge jet-set vibe. It was definitely a collection for a man on the go who doesn’t like to look stylish, but be stylish. At Versace, Donatella offered a bit of diversity within rock and roll, it seemed to feature a bit of edge for everyone. There we witnessed belted trenches, quilted leather jackets and pants, cashmere, as well as the use of black and electric cobalt blue. All creating what could be called rock sophistication.
Gucci (Left) Pringle of Scotland (Center) Versace (Right)
Lastly, the shows that were a relative surprise was Pringle of Scotland and John Richmond, where we witnessed soft woven knits for tough men. This was a collection not for the sensitive and delicate, it was rugged, outdoorsy, but youthful nonetheless. There were plenty of wovens, plaids, furs, and leather coats which truly gave it a wide variety to choose from but keeping within the same target, young and tough edge. At Richmond it was much the same, tough and edge but with rock as the core. Fur, leather pants, and knitwear were also present but the main stars were the metallic prints and the bronze shoes, truly the treats of the show. Although not a collection for all, it did accomplish its purpose of serving rock and innovation. With three days down, and only one left, what will the last day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week bring?