With the conclusion of the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, fashion migrates north and Milan Men’s Fashion Week unfolds and proves to be a kaleidoscope through the eyes of a dandy. Corneliani demonstrated that classic can be young and that simple can be sophisticated with a strong and well-tailored collection which consisted mostly of greys, blacks, and pops of white in an array of differently cut coats. It was truly a guide to every young man on how to dress. The finale was fitting with a rendition of “Take My Breath Away,” as it was exactly what this collection did. Bravo!
Also keeping up with the modern dandy was Dolce & Gabbana, which we’ve come to see as synonymous of their style. Their collection was a bit psychedelic and a bit classic mod, ranging from reflective red floral printed suits to tailored plaid ensembles. Also star at the show were stripes and a recent trend seen again on the uprising, suspenders. It was definitely young, definitely fun, definitely a collection to seek for the Fall. At Burberry Prorsum, we saw a bit of the same but with a tad less excitement. The collection seemed to revolve around British punk youth with a twist of life on the farm. Surprisingly plaids and purples were king as well as an unusual choice of colors ranging from orange, reds, mustards, blues, neutrals, and an odd choice, cow prints. Coats were big as is to be expected at a Winter show, there were impermeable, calf-skin, leather, clear, even a recent trend, fabric combined apparel, ie. leather and cashmere which all proved to be a wardrobe piece to be desired amongst men. Overall it was very well done and very well-tailored. Once again Burberry shows us how to be smart and practical while looking chic all at once.
Dolce & Gabbana
Jil Sander and Carlo Pignatelli Outside proved to be a bit bland this season as the collections lacked much innovation, but the one advantage at Sander was color. Everything from neon greens, purples, and oranges were seen as well as royal blues and reds, it was very fun and youthful although very conservative. Same collection, different color. Frankie Morello was a delightful showcase of travels, looking at the collection was a bit like travelling with the designer duo through their biography and visiting the places they’ve been, it was a bit Machu Picchu, a bit Rajasthan, it was a scrapbook collection. Ponchos were present as well as a mix of wovens and fabrics in the same garment. Stripes and plaids were huge, combined with the ultra deep v-necks, which resulted the collection in a very ethnic and a very young show. At John Varvatos we saw a bit the same but with a change in color palette, focusing more on grays, olive greens, and browns for their fitted pants and belted suits, which turned out to be a bit what a Indiana Jones’ son would wear.
Ermenegildo Zegna (Left), Costume National Homme (Right)
Moving from adventure and towards athletics, we come across Moschino which was very fun this season. It was definitely designed for the musician or sportsman, since it included an eclectic combination of lightning blue suits and black leathers jackets as well as an array of rugby stripes, it’s not a collection for everyone but it was different and unexpected. The other two shows that proved to be a success on this first day were Ermenegildo Zegna and Costume National Homme. This season Zegna rewrote history for us and proved that what we learned in school about the British and the Chinese wasn’t necessarily true. Rather than the British colonizing the Orient, the Italians went and conquered with fashion creating and eccentric collection with fine Italian tailoring with a zing of Oriental modesty and culture, a blend which will leave any man as well dressed. How could he not, wearing Chinese silks, browns, maroons, as well as the sleek cardigans seen, it was definitely what every man wants to be wearing. At Costume National what we saw was an homage to Britain’s seventies’ pop culture scene. It was very Beatles, very jet-set and British punk all at the same time. Expect to see Rockish leather jackets, turtle necks, blues, grays, and stripes. Overall, it was an interesting first day at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which foreshadows much of what is to come the next three days, expect the unexpected.